This swatch is for a cyberpunk style Hand Tornado. This is essentially a glove with a motor on it that is a fan. The fan is activated when the FSR that is in the thumb is being pressed, then if the potentiometer to adjust the speed is turned; the fan will operate. I came up with this idea in regards to my limited parts and because I was sitting one day and wanted a small fan that I could use only when needed. So I thought I could use that as inspiration for this creation which is small and portable. It isn't cumbersome like a regular fan and more accessible for someone who doesn't like wind constantly hitting them but wants to stay cool. I came up with the glove design/fan on hand idea in light of the new Cyberpunk 2077 game and decided that this specific type of glove wouldn't be a bad idea because its not very warm but still sturdy to build on. However, the cons include all the wiring and breadboard and such, which makes it less portable. This could have been with more permanent or applicable wires or other conductive materials, but due to COVID-19 I was unable to develop further.
Materials:
– 10 jumper wires
– FSR Sensor 0.5″ 1Mohm 22lb
– 1Kohm resistor
– Green Led
– Mini Photoresistor 1k-10k (PHOTO-01)
– TIP32C Transistor
– 4.5VDC Motor
– B10K Potentiometer
– 1 Thin Drinking Straw and 1 Large
– Electrical Tape
– Super Glue
– Solder + Materials
– Simple Acrylic-Spandex Glove
Tools and Techniques:
Soldering Iron
Scissors
Bootleg Custom Transistor:
LED on left. LDR on right. Both inside a drinking straw which is then covered in dark tape. Note: The short leg of the LED is then wrapped around the current releasing leg of the LDR.
Current Split:
The exiting current of the motor is split through the BJT PNP transistor so that only when both the FSR sensor and the potentiometer are allowing enough current through will the circuit allow the current to properly go reach the ground rail; spinning the motor.
Images:
Note: You can see the LED leg wrapped around the LDR leg closest to bottom of the image.
Since it is a final project of Experiment four, so I wanted to create a better version of the textile and technique compare to the last assignment; I was focused on the design and creating polished work because I wanted to do more than making the workable sensor. The final piece is a hand-made product with hand sewing technique.
Belt Accessory: Night Walk, is a wearable belt that purposely made for jogging at the night time, but I also care on the asset and cloth design. My idea started with the thought of the danger of jogging during night time because there could be an accident since it is dark outside. I thought it would be wonderful to create Digital switches for Lilypad LEDs that work in different situations; the first situation is when people are wearing cloth, and the second situation is when people hit by somewhere. Lighting up the led will help passenger and driver to recognize you, and soft push button switch will let you and others identify your danger because it will turn on when you hit by somewhere or lying down. I created pleats on the cloth so I can diffuse the LED by using a backlighting technique.
Additional Note:
What is Working?
Hand Sewing; I was able to create a polish work with hand sewing.
All the switches
Circuits; Getting familiar with materials: conductive thread and copper tape, helped me to create a complicated circuit diagram. Making circuit got much more challenging than last time because of the pleat design of the cloth.
What is not Working?
Stability of Battery holder.
Creating Robust Circuit; I used Copper tape and conductive thread. However, I learned that making a circuit with conductive thread is much stronger than using mainly copper tape. However, the Copper tape is a convenience to users.
Placement of the soft push button; Originally, soft push button was to warn or notify the danger to themselves or passenger by making the LEDs to turn on when the user hit by somewhere. However, based on the experiment, since conductive fabrics size are too small, so the button would not working unless you hit the specific spot. Moreover, When I fall on the ground, other people cannot see the LED because my body covers LED. Therefore, if I am creating this project again, I will create shoulder strap, and attach the led on there, so LED can emit its light when the user falls on the ground during the emergency.
Tip* Putting copper tape on the joint part of the circuit with conductive thread can make a more robust circuit.
Group 14 Christina Chen Swatch type Digital switch Description This is a digital switch that works through pushing the heart. There is a sponge on the inside with a hole through it. There is a layer of conductive copper tape on both sides. So when the heart is pressed, the copper tape gets closer together.
Tools and techniques Building off of 4.2 where I made analog fabric pressure sensors, I decided to try something similar where pressure is applied. I saw a digital switch soft push button using foam which looked like it would produce better results when it came to applying pressure. So first I tried this method with a scrap of knit material to see how it would react. (https://vimeo.com/488800742)
When it came to actually putting the heart together, first I cut out the heart shaped fabrics with a knife. I laid out copper tape on the inside. Then I used the knife to make the sponge thinner, and scissors to cut the sponge into a shape that would fit inside the fabric. Next I poked a hole inside the sponge with a knife, making sure the hole would be in an area above the copper tape area. Then I sewed the heart together using needle and thread.
The sponge needed to be significantly smaller than the size of the fabric because it needed to be sewed together with breathing room. If it is put together too tightly the switch will not work.
Notes This switch differs from the original because the original is meant to be three push buttons. I used the concept of pushing however the materials are slightly different as well. For one, the original uses neoprene while I used cotton. I also substituted conductive fabric for copper tape and foam for sponge. Also the shape is different and my sewing skills are significantly worse.
These wearable pieces act as switches,passing signals to four different Arduino pins in order to trigger programmed events during a live performance. The signals can be sent by holding either of the hand pieces to any of the other pieces (one of the knee pieces has 2 possible connections, the rest have 1). The Arduino module then sends the readings to Max 8 to trigger changes in sound.
The placement and features of the wearable parts puts the performer in a defamiliarized state in relation to their body, and encourages exploration of their new appendages as well as examination of their old movements. For this programmed piece, synchronized connections of body parts trigger the transition between entirely different sonic environments, bringing focus to these moments of unity, and the positioning of the body in these transitional states.
Materials
Conductive thread
Screws
Metal wire
Non-conductive thread
Hookup wire
PCB or breadboard
Resistors (4 x 4.7K ohm, 4 x 220 ohm)
Coin cell battery + holder
Non-conductive fabric to form the parts (nylons, yarn)
Tools & Techniques
Each part was constructed by attaching conductive materials (wire, screws) to non-conductive fabric using non-conductive thread, and then connecting them to a lead wire and a paired current-limiting 220 ohm resistor using conductive thread. I found the easiest method to secure the parts onto the fabric was by bending hooks onto the ends of metal pieces where possible, to create anchors for sewing.
After testing, I found that I would get tiny shocks from having my bare skin exposed to the metal pieces, so I added a layer of tape (yes, this was after looking up if you could accidentally defibrillate your heart with a 3.3 V battery. You can’t). I also added some resistors to some of the longer circuit sections between the conductive screws, so that depending on the point at which the circuit made contact, a different effective resistance would vary the current and reading sent to the Arduino- in the future, these could be used as analog sensors instead of on/off switches.
The “receiving” parts (knees, face) were then attached to a PCB using their lead wire, where they were soldered to pull-down resistors and connected to their respective Arduino analog input pins. The “sending” parts (hands) were attached to the positive terminal of the battery using their lead wire. I could have just used an Arduino pin to send a signal out instead of using a battery, but I was convinced earlier on that I could have a wireless glove set up by using the battery (it didn’t work, of course).
Here are the knees, face, and hands in respective order:
Add some music to your little things in daily life.
Group #11
Rhepa Kamal
Ziqi Guo
Qinxinrui Zhu
Weiqi Wu
Wrok done by Weiqi Wu (3175842)
Description
This is a Speaker Actuator. This is an interactive music box (speaker) that users could place their cup or anything that has weight. While something is placing on the towel part, the music will on. The inspiration comes from the process of making the speaker actuator in assignment 4-2. In this project, I tried to explore the way that collaborates the speaker with other things. During the exploration, I found out that there is a lot of stuff on my desk, therefore, I decided to combine the speaker with something so that it will save the space on the desk as well as people can have some music playing.
MATERIALS
Function purpose:
- Magnet
- Magnet Wire
- Arduino Uno
- Sponge
- Tin foil
- Adafruit Mono 2.5W Class D Audio Amplifier - PAM8302
- Tape and Glue
Decoration purpose:
- Foam Board
- Acrylic borad
- Towel
Tool and Techniques
Utility Knife: To help to cut the form board and sponge
Scissors: Used to cut the magnet wire, tape, and tin foil
Double-sided tape: To set the fixed position
Glue gun: To construct the box and any other things that need to be glued
Materials and Tools
First Prototype
Construction Stages
(top-left: details of the class-D amplifier; top-right: detail of the Arduino Uno; bottom-left: the overall details; bottom-right: the magnet wire speaker)
This is the very first prototype of the speaker, testing if it is working or not.
Detail Shots
(upper-left: all the components inside the speaker music box; upper-right: the outlook of the music box; bottom-left: the magnet under the cup; bottom-right: the cup place on the music box, and the music box start to play music)
For the next step, I made a box for the speaker, and it became a music box. It connects all the wire and put it inside the box. On top of the music box, it is the magnet wire. The magnet is under the cup. So when the cup place in a specific area, the music will turn on.
Stage of Interaction
This is how the first prototype will interact. Placing the cup on the music box, and the music box will turn on.
For the first prototype, the music box could only interact with the cup. I would like to further develop it that no matter what objects people place on the music box, there will be music playing. Therefore, I need to put the magnet in the music box at the beginning. To solve the problem that the music will always be playing, I decided to find a method that can open the circuit before the input of the magnet wire. Therefore, only when something place on the music box and close the circuit, the music box will on.
Second Prototype
Construction Stages
I used Velostat to test whether it will work or not. If it works when the object places on the music box, there is pressure on the Velostat, and the circuit will close, the speaker, which means the music box, will work. However, the Velostat does not really work, there is no sound. So fail to use Velostat as the switch to the circuit.
Final version
Construction Stages
With the inspiration of my group member’s example in assignment 4-2, which called “Three Buttons”. I decided to use sponge and tin foil to create the switch of the circuit. So when the object places on the music box, it will add pressure to the sponge, and two sides of the tin foil will touch each other which closes the circuit.
(top-left: the sponge that cut; top-right: the sponge with two sheets of tin foil; bottom: the sponge with the tin foil in two sides)
It does work really well. So I started to construct the music box and make the sponge looks better.
(top-left: foam board of the box; top-right: cover the sponge with a towel and testing whether it works or not; bottom-left and right: finish making the box. The towel is on top of the box, and there is a foam board on top of the sponge, in order to make it looks better.)
These are the construction steps of making the music box. However, it does not work, the foam board on top of the sponge is too supportive. It spread the weight of the object, thus, there was less pressure applied on the sponge, which not allowing tin foil to connect together.
(top-left and right: I decided to leave only the sponge with the towel cover on top of the box since there is no better option for me to do that)
In this way, the speaker will work when there is pressure on the towel area.
Detail Shots
(left: the overall look of the music box; right: the overall looks inside the music box, including the paper speaker, magnet, amplifier, and Arduino Uno)
Stage of Interaction
This is the stage of interaction. I placed a cup and a candle on the music box, and it works properly. The music box will on and play some music.
Final version VIDEO
For the video of the final version, the amplifier experienced damage before the video recording, which made it does not work anymore. There two possible reasons that the amplifier became broke. The first one is that the amplifier experienced a short cut. It was too hot during the testing that burned inside, so the amplifier does not work anymore. Another reason is that I used a glue gun to fix the position of the amplifier and the hot glue was directly applied to the amplifier, and the glue was really hot, which might lead to damage to the amplifier.
Before I found out that the amplifier is broken, I test different parts to check where the problems happen. I made a new paper speaker and used a new wire to connect each part. Then I reupload the code to the Arduino Uno. And after that, I built the basic version of the speaker, and it still did not work. So I think that the problems happened in the amplifier.
Since I only have one amplifier and buy a new one will take at least two weeks to deliver, I could not record the video of the final outcome of the music box. But it worked well when I took the photos of the stage of the interaction. At the interaction stage, I haven’t use the glue gun to fix the position of the amplifier. In the interaction stage, before I put anything on the music box, there is no sound or music, and after I place the candle or cup on the towel area on the music box, the music box started to work and play music.
For the basic working principle understanding, the testing video is basically the same as the testing of the final version, other than the extra towel-covered on the sponge and set on the music box. So please look at the testing video and find out how the music box work.
Due to the accident of the broken in an audio amplifier, I think that it would be better next time to add a resistor in between the speaker and the amplifier. During the testing, the amplifier was hot while using it, so that might be the reason for burning the amplifier and made it doesn’t work. Also, another reminder will do not put anything too hot on the amplifier or other microcontrollers, which might cause some damage because of the high temperature. In addition, in order to allow the project to work smoothly, it is a great idea to prepare at least two sets of materials so that when something is not working, there will be another one for you to continue your project.
For further development of this project, I would like to change the material for making the music box. Instead of foam board, it will have better look in wood, acrylic board, or metal. Also, I would like to change the sound of the music box that makes it into a song instead of only some notes.
Moreover, people could add more colours to the music box if they want to. I like a white and clean look, so I did not add any colours.
This is a tight-up sensor. The inspiration is from the previous assignment where I used the sponge and conductive tin foil. However, this time, I tried to explore more about creating a new way of the interaction of fabric with the electronic circuit by considering the question “what can we do to start up the electronic circuit on the fabric if we do not intend press a ‘button’? “
Materials
copper wires
LEDs
non-conductive fabric
sponge
9V battery
non-conductive thread
Velostat
Tools & techniques
sewing
the technique of making a purse “elastic band.”
steps & details
1.Prototype
–Learning how to make a purse by using prototyping materials.
-Test the Velostat.
2.Sewing all the LEDs in order. Sewing them on different positions based on their colors and the color of the patterns on the purse. Using copper wire to make a closed circuit.
3.Testing the way to how the sponge,copper wire and Velostat should be placed. (Here I tested three different ways and finally use the last strategy to successfully make a good way which make sure that the copper wire could touch the Velostat. It might be different from different fabric you use.
Detailed Shots
stages of interaction (see the beginning two photos)
About the swatch:
A knitted stretch sensor headband is meant to replicate a sense of coziness and warmth when you put it on. Originally, the idea was to insert a heating pad into the band so it would keep you warm outside during winter. It would only turn on when you wear it. To showcase it’s ability, I have used an red LED instead.
It’s knitted with conductive thread and thick yarn. Both of those materials combined is able to give it the ability to stretch and measure various resistance values. With those values, I was able to set up a conditional if the headband is stretched between certain values, then the LED can turn on.
Construction Stages:
Materials:
Knitting yarn
Conductive thread
Elastic string
Knitting needles
LEDs
Copper insulated wire
220 ohm resistor
Tools and Techniques:
Knowledge of knitting (casting on, casting off)
Stockinette knitting stitch (creates a fold on the knitted edges)
Written by Group 1 (Ryan Boyd, Sarah Boo, Karen Quach)
Rainbow Walkers: NeoPixel Sneakers w/ Digital Switch by Ryan Boyd
Swatch Type: Digital Switch
These NeoPixel Sneakers were inspired by the Firewalker LED Sneakers on Adafruit. The Circuit Playground Express, which is sewed into the high top, is hooked up to a 3x AAA Battery pack that also hooks into the high top of the sneaker. The cables were soldered from the Circuit Playground to a NeoPixel strip, and there are two conductive threads, one threaded into a pin and the other into ground, taped to the inside of the sneaker. The NeoPixel strip is activated when the two conductive threads are connected by a strip of conductive fabric which would be sewn into the bottom of your socks, causing the lights to appear only when the shoes are worn. The code will show a color wipe of each colour of the rainbow when the digital switch is activated.
Materials
Sneakers
Jumper Wires
Solder
NeoPixel
Conductive Thread
Normal Thread
Conductive Fabric
3x AAA Battery Pack
Circuit Playground Express
Strong Adhesive (In my case, Double Sided Foam Tape)
Tools & Techniques
Soldering Iron
Sewing Needle
The Circuit Playground Expressed was sewed onto the High Top of the shoe while the conductive threads were threaded into each pin. The NeoPixel was soldered to the circuit board with jumper wire.
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-circuit-playground-express/pinouts Additional Notes: The ways in which the Rainbow Walkers are different from the Firewalkers are in two main areas. The first is that while the Firewalkers employ a pressure sensor based on velostat and is step activated, the Rainbow walkers use a digital switch which is based on presence or absence of connection between the loose conductive threads inside the shoe, and is thus always activated when the shoes are worn with a conductive fabric sock. The second way the Rainbow Walkers differ is that they employ a color wipe of the entire rainbow rather than one colour, cycling through one colour at a time across the whole strip before moving onto the next. I originally tried to employ the use of a pressure sensor which did work in the 4.2 section of the class section, but because I used a Circuit Playground Express, it did not pick up usable values from the pressure sensor, and instead read a random value between 0-10 no matter how much pressure was applied, and thus there was no way to differentiate a step from nothing happening at all. I needed to create a distinct state of activation, so I decided to turn it into a digital switch instead. An additional tip I employed was the use of a battery pack with a hook so it was easier to keep in place in the sneaker. One difficulty I had was finding a long lasting adhesive for the NeoPixel. I tried using hot glue, double sided tape, and even gorilla glue. Nothing seemed to stick for long, but double sided tape would at least hold together. The original Firewalker employed an adhesive that too 24 hours to dry, so moving forward I may look into using that for long term use.
This is a Capacitive Sensor. It is a simple interactive swatch where you can “shake” the platform which will trigger a melody and lights. You can also press onto presents, which will manually glow the tree and produce a sound. I called this the “Winter Warmth” because I love the holidays since it is the time of the year where everyone puts up lights, trees that bring warmth and comfort.
Materials
These materials are used to create this swatch. The main materials are :
Adafruit Circuit Playground Express
Aluminum Foil
Conductive thread
Whiteboard and cardboard, or any board that could be used as a surface
Tape & Glue
And the rest of the materials were used for decorating purposes:
Fairylights(optional)
Paper
toothpicks, popsicle sticks & pipe
Tissue & cotton
Fabric
This is my brainstorming board, where I have drawn and listed things that I have wanted to create and give me an idea of the final product.
I was debating whether to make a snowglobe or board. Turns out, I don’t have any type of dome so I went with the board.
I started off by attaching the conductive thread into a specific pin number on the circuit playground. That will act as our button.
I then taped it onto a square whiteboard and glued a popsicle stick that will hold the tissue tree and hide the circuit board. I cut a hole for the USB connection. I made the tree using tissues and gluing it onto a clear plastic cone, then place it onto the glue popsicle sticks so I can just remove the tree to make any other adjustments.
I placed it onto another board and cut square holes into them. Make sure each conductive thread would be able to reach each square. That is where we will insert the fairy light and hide it with a small fabric present box to illuminate the piece more. I added a pipe as a guide to wrap, and glue the fabric since I am very horrible when it comes to sewing. It was a bit messy, however, it will all be hidden from the cotton.
Once wrapped, the ribbon must be conductive to act as a button. I connected the conductive thread with the aluminum foil.
Code
I used MakCode to program the Circuit Playground Express. Link to the code:
Group 1 Members: Ryan Boyd, Sarah Boo, Karen Quach
The Swatch type is Digital Switch
I made a bear plushy; the idea was to make a cyborg bear thing. The bear’s left eye lights up when the bear’s paws touch each other, I also wanted to make the cape move up and down with an electromagnet, but the material I used for the cape was too heavy and the electromagnet was too weak to be able to move the cape up and down.
Materials
Fleece
LED
Conductive Fabric
Thread & needle
Neodymium magnet
Magnetic wire
Aluminum foil
Double-sided tape
Silicon electrical Wires
Tools & Techniques
I hand stitched the bear, for the template of the bear, I drew “bear parts” on paper and cut them out, for the conductive fabric I cut out paw shapes and ironed them onto the paw, the paws also have a tab for the wires to connect to. For the LED eye, I cut a hole and super glued the LED.
For the cape, I coiled the magnetic wire around a straw and sewed it on the cap, and the magnet is sewed inside the bear as well. The cape is too heavy, but it does move very slightly but not a lot that it makes a difference
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Inspiration of Cloth Design
I was debating whether to make a snowglobe or board. Turns out, I don’t have any type of dome so I went with the board.
