Voodoo Cat: Pin Cushion With a Twist

GROUP 10: Alfonso, Kanav, Iris, Neetu

Introduction to Swatch

Swatch Type

Digital Switch

20201212_001726 20201212_001621 20201212_001932


This sad looking Frankenstein cat was meant to be a slightly scarier version of a pin cushion. Since starting this section of Atelier I have re-found my passion for sewing. Because I enjoy more absurd things, I wanted to create sort of a Frankenstein cat in which pins of electricity give it life. Depending on where you would strike a needle through the cat one of its three eyes would light up. Not only would it be an adorable addition to my sewing kit, but it could have also been a fun game of Russian roulette the first time around, before memorising the positions. It is a mix media piece that was inspired by two separate projects I have attempted throughout my trials within this medium.

Creating the Swatch


  • Felting wool
  • Two different thicknesses of string
  • Felt (black and yellow)
  • Stuffing
  • Conductive thread
  • Conductive fabric
  • Thin steel wire
  • 3 coloured LEDs
  • 9V Block battery

outline of circuit

image_2020-12-12_015954As you put a needle through one of the CPs onto the Felt layer the circuit of the specific LED will connect to the ground thus turning on that specific LED.

creating swatch


Here you can see a couple of the steps outlined before the final product.

  1. First the plush base must be made where a sphere is made and stuffed. On top of this sphere the rest of the swatch will be built.
  2. After completing the sphere the conductive fabric should be sewn on it. Remember to leave a slab of fabric hanging since this will be connected to the “ground” of the LEDs
  3. Cover up the conductive fabric with felt in order to make sure the next bits of conductive fabric will not directly connect to it.
  4. Using a felting needle create a small sphere which will serve as the head of the cat and a good place to stab the LEDs in.
    1. IMPORTANT!!! I made a mistake here, a better strategy to approach this would be connecting the head to the ground of the LEDs so, I recommend having the centre of the head filled with conductive material that goes through the body to the ground. This will not only stabilise the body but it will also not tangle the wires or result in unwanted overlaps.
  5. Proceed to connect individual legs of the LEDs to different patches of conductive tape as shown in the picture. Do this with conductive thread. Leave dangling bits at the bottom in order for it to be easier to connect them to a battery.
  6. After completing these and setting the + and – sides of the LEDs focus on customising your Frankenstein cat or dubious creature and enjoy a little voodoo creature you can poke and trigger.



Additional Information


  1. Voodoo sensor 
  2. Needle felted sensor

further notes

Unfortunately as it can be seen in the video, the sensor did not work as well as I would have hoped. I had received materials like conductive thread very late and rushed my wiring in order to complete this sensor by today. Unfortunately my initial design technique and approach were not efficient so, likely, a lot of my LED wires got tangled and resulted in them not even turning on. Only one LED remained powerful enough to shine through thankfully allowing me tho demonstrate the potential of this sensor.

Overall I am proud of my creation, I think it turned out good at least design wise having both the obscurity as well as the cuteness desired. I would have really liked to have been able to fix my circuit. I had tested it prior to adding the LED and I was certain it will work until I reached the head. In the future, in order to fix this error, I will make the centre of the head a grounded piece and make sure I connect the base for all LEDs prior to connecting them individually. In addition I will also have a thicker layer in between the ground conductive piece and the separate ones on top. This will provide the space I need to comfortably stitch conductive thread without fearing that it will touch the lower layer. While there were many errors in my design this offered me the opportunity to understand how I can incorporate a  small battery in my creation and also understand better how to take advantage of my materials.

Unfortunately now it is merely a regular yet eccentric pin cushion, I hope I will be able to create this piece again and potentially add an additional pressure sensor to it that would make some sound or keep track of the needles added.

4.3 Crafting Swatches: Analog Sensor – LDR/LED Glove Sensor

Evan Switzer – 3173264

Swatch: Analog Sensor: Ldr Glove Sensor –

“Salvos Glove”

Link to Arduino Code/Inventory: https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/tarantula3/using-an-ldr-sensor-with-arduino-807b1c  

Materials: LED Light (Blue), Ldr Sensor, Wiring, Alligator clips, Resistors (10kΩ, 220kΩ), Leather Glove.

Tools: Scissors, Sewing Needle. Electrical Tape.


A wearable glove that activates an LED when there is not a light source provided on the ldr sensor). I decided to use a basic work glove for testing. I extended the wiring with extensions provided by the arduino kit and used alligator clips on the led to ensure the connectivity would still be intact.  The swatch is usable under the context of visibility for the wearer if they are in a lightless environment. In my opinion, if the light source was a bright LED with a higher voltage, or a modified LED with a 3v lithium battery, it would be very applicable for wearers who are in outdoor environments such as camping in the woods (using the light to help guide through terrain or assistance with building a tent).


  1. Create a circuit with the arduino kit and breadboard. The circuit I used was from this link (https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/tarantula3/using-an-ldr-sensor-with-arduino-807b1c ) . Test for connectivity.screen-shot-2020-12-09-at-6-13-36-pm


2. Pierce the glove with holes for proper application of the LDR sensor and LED.



3. Insert LDR and LED and connect through appropriate wiring.


4. Test Swatch.


Materials: LED Light (Blue), LDR Sensor, Wiring, Alligator clips, Resistors (10kΩ, 220kΩ), Leather Glove.

Tools: Scissors, Sewing Needle. Electrical Tape.

Arduino Code/Circuit Diagram



Influence: Speaker actuator/Neoprene Sensor

sp img_3496



Influence:I used the design of both the neoprene sensor and and the fabric speaker actuator for this assignment, due to learning about the circuitry of amplifying the fabric speaker and applying the circuitry in a completely analog format with the use of fabric (in this case leather instead of neoprene).

Tools/Technique:  I conducted more online research to find an analog process that would activate with pressure but instead came across a Light Dependent Resistor (LDR), which is an analog sensor that detects any light source. I figured that with closing the hand for activation it would be a more creative process of activating the LED switch. I found a code and circuit diagram that uses the LDR sensor to activate a LED when there is no light present and tested the circuit. I then punctured holes in the glove and placed the wiring into the glove. I checked beforehand to make sure the circuitry was functioning and applied extra wiring for the user to wear the glove for testing and the end result as you can see  was a success. 


[4.3 Crafting Electronics Swatch-book] Belt Accessory: Night Walk

[4.3 Crafting Electronics Swatch-book]

Belt Accessory: Night Walk




Experiment 4 Groups 15 – 4.3  Student Group

Tae Nim (3170229)

Watch Video of Finished Work (56 Seconds)
Swatch Type: Digital Switch

Since it is a final project of Experiment four, so I wanted to create a better version of the textile and technique compare to the last assignment; I was focused on the design and creating polished work because I wanted to do more than making the workable sensor. The final piece is a hand-made product with hand sewing technique.

Belt Accessory: Night Walk, is a wearable belt that purposely made for jogging at the night time, but I also care on the asset and cloth design.  My idea started with the thought of the danger of jogging during night time because there could be an accident since it is dark outside. I thought it would be wonderful to create Digital switches for Lilypad LEDs that work in different situations; the first situation is when people are wearing cloth, and the second situation is when people hit by somewhere. Lighting up the led will help passenger and driver to recognize you, and soft push button switch will let you and others identify your danger because it will turn on when you hit by somewhere or lying down. I created pleats on the cloth so I can diffuse the LED by using a backlighting technique.

Additional Note:

What is Working?

  • Hand Sewing; I was able to create a polish work with hand sewing.
  • All the switches
  • Circuits; Getting familiar with materials: conductive thread and copper tape, helped me to create a complicated circuit diagram. Making circuit got much more challenging than last time because of the pleat design of the cloth.

What is not Working?

  • Stability of Battery holder.
  • Creating Robust Circuit; I used Copper tape and conductive thread. However, I learned that making a circuit with conductive thread is much stronger than using mainly copper tape. However, the Copper tape is a convenience to users.
  • Placement of the soft push button; Originally, soft push button was to warn or notify the danger to themselves or passenger by making the LEDs to turn on when the user hit by somewhere. However, based on the experiment, since conductive fabrics size are too small, so the button would not working unless you hit the specific spot. Moreover, When I fall on the ground, other people cannot see the LED because my body covers LED. Therefore, if I am creating this project again, I will create shoulder strap, and attach the led on there, so LED can emit its light when the user falls on the ground during the emergency.

Tip* Putting copper tape on the joint part of the circuit with conductive thread can make a more robust circuit.

Finished Work


  • Thread
  • Conductive Thread
  • Conductive Fabric
  • Six of Lilypad LED
  • Clothes
  • 9V Battery
  • 9V Battery Holder
  • Button
  • Non-Woven Cloth
  • Wire
  • Glue

List and Link of the Tools and Technique:


1.  Soft Push Button







2.  Switches with Buttons


LED is a binary Actuator, so I used LED Actuator reference as well for the presentation of using LED: circuit and diffusion. 


Serpentine LED Strip

Instead of using cone shape, I created Pleats by getting an inspiration from Fold Switch

Fabric LED Strip

Sew-able LEDs

Construction Stages


  1. Pin the cloth
  2. Hand Sewing
  3. LED and Circuits


Circuit Diagram



Inspiration of Cloth Design

4.3 Crafting Electronic Swatches

By: Sana Yasamani 3180650, Serena Seow 3167001, Khrystyna Gandabura 3178285,

Swatch #1:

Sana Yasamani Khiabani, 3180650s, Swatch: The Light-Up Pathways

I further improved upon a sensor I did previously for this swatch, for I truly did want to try out more things in regards to LEDs. It mainly is a Capacitive Sensor. 

Essentially what this Swatch does, is that it is a series of tinfoil, felt, wool, and wires, all connected in different pathways and branches, to have the end result of lighting up an LED. There are different areas to do it, whether within the wool or upon the tinfoil, but at the end as long as two of the wires connect to the conductive sectors, the LED shall light up. 

It’s incredibly layered, with a base part of tinfoil connecting to the LED, a mid part of felt,  an upper part of tinfoil branching around to connect to everywhere the branches are placed, and a final layer of felt at the top, with wool in the places necessary. 

The techniques and tools used shall be represented within the materials section, but overall the most important part is to have tape when things get messy, in order to stay organized. 

Inspired by: https://arduinogetstarted.com/tutorials/arduino-button-led




  • Felt
  • Tinfoil
  • Conductive Wool
  • An LED
  • 4 MtoM wires
  • Arduino UNO


Process Part 1: Half tinfoil, felt, and wires ready. Place all layers beside each other properly. 

Process Part 2: Place the Felt layer, and then the Wire connector layer above the LED layer. 

Process Part 3: Place the final Felt layer with the woolen layer. 

20201211_200808     20201211_200654

Here’s how it should end up:

Although not exactly, this is the closest circuit board I could make in just the circuits itself, the red boxes representing the conductive pathways.


https://ocadu.techsmithrelay.com/qoFR is the video link !


Swatch #2:

Serena Seow, 3167001, Swatch: Touch Lamp

Touch Lamp is a mini lamp I created working from my original touch sensor, using the human touch as a capacitor. I decided to use a mini paper origami ball to act as the lamp cover, to give it a softer glow, as opposed to the hard white LED, and used copper tape to fit it all onto a sheet of paper.


Type:  Analog Sensor


  • MtoM wires
  • White paper
  • Copper tape
  • Arduino uno
  • 220k resistor(2)


Inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSX4vuSdC1E&t=124s

Code: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzI1z5n4uz3GeFZMbEdwX1ZmT3M/view

Video: https://ocadu.techsmithrelay.com/nsLh



Swatch #3,

Khrystyna Gandabura, 3178285, Swatch: Cotton Cloud

For this project, I wanted to experiment with different kinds of fabrics; Taking 4.2 to completion I wanted to experiment with the lights and shading that cotton would create. How can a fabrics and electronics interact within each other.

To create this cloud I used the push button with and LED lights. Created a code, that when the button switch is pressed colours in the cloud change. As well as I added some magnets that hold the light in place. After all the wires with LED are coded I shaped a cloud out of cotton and placed the lights into the cloud; as well as hid all the extra wires under the box.





Here is the link to the Swatch Powerpoint!


Heart push sensor


Group 14  Christina Chen
Swatch type  Digital switch
Description  This is a digital switch that works through pushing the heart. There is a sponge on the inside with a hole through it. There is a layer of conductive copper tape on both sides. So when the heart is pressed, the copper tape gets closer together.

Needle and thread, copper tape, fabric, scissors and/or knife, sponge

Tools and techniques
Building off of 4.2 where I made analog fabric pressure sensors, I decided to try something similar where pressure is applied. I saw a digital switch soft push button using foam which looked like it would produce better results when it came to applying pressure. So first I tried this method with a scrap of knit material to see how it would react. (https://vimeo.com/488800742

When it came to actually putting the heart together, first I cut out the heart shaped fabrics with a knife. I laid out copper tape on the inside. Then I used the knife to make the sponge thinner, and scissors to cut the sponge into a shape that would fit inside the fabric. Next I poked a hole inside the sponge with a knife, making sure the hole would be in an area above the copper tape area. Then I sewed the heart together using needle and thread.

The sponge needed to be significantly smaller than the size of the fabric because it needed to be sewed together with breathing room. If it is put together too tightly the switch will not work.

Video  https://ocadu.techsmithrelay.com/cuUD
Reference  https://www.instructables.com/Three-Fabric-Buttons/ 

Notes  This switch differs from the original because the original is meant to be three push buttons. I used the concept of pushing however the materials are slightly different as well. For one, the original uses neoprene while I used cotton. I also substituted conductive fabric for copper tape and foam for sponge. Also the shape is different and my sewing skills are significantly worse.

Conduction: E-Textile Body Movement Sensors for Live Performance

Group 1: Sarah Boo, Ryan Boyd, Karen Quach

These wearable pieces act as switches, passing signals to four different Arduino pins in order to trigger programmed events during a live performance. The signals can be sent by holding either of the hand pieces to any of the other pieces (one of the knee pieces has 2 possible connections, the rest have 1). The Arduino module then sends the readings to Max 8 to trigger changes in sound.

The placement and features of the wearable parts puts the performer in a defamiliarized state in relation to their body, and encourages exploration of their new appendages as well as examination of their old movements. For this programmed piece, synchronized connections of body parts trigger the transition between entirely different sonic environments, bringing focus to these moments of unity, and the positioning of the body in these transitional states.


  • Conductive thread
  • Screws
  • Metal wire
  • Non-conductive thread
  • Hookup wire
  • PCB or breadboard
  • Resistors (4 x 4.7K ohm, 4 x 220 ohm)
  • Coin cell battery + holder
  • Non-conductive fabric to form the parts (nylons, yarn)

Tools & Techniques

Each part was constructed by attaching conductive materials (wire, screws) to non-conductive fabric using non-conductive thread, and then connecting them to a lead wire and a paired current-limiting 220 ohm resistor using conductive thread. I found the easiest method to secure the parts onto the fabric was by bending hooks onto the ends of metal pieces where possible, to create anchors for sewing.


After testing, I found that I would get tiny shocks from having my bare skin exposed to the metal pieces, so I added a layer of tape (yes, this was after looking up if you could accidentally defibrillate your heart with a 3.3 V battery. You can’t). I also added some resistors to some of the longer circuit sections between the conductive screws, so that depending on the point at which the circuit made contact, a different effective resistance would vary the current and reading sent to the Arduino- in the future, these could be used as analog sensors instead of on/off switches.

The “receiving” parts (knees, face) were then attached to a PCB using their lead wire, where they were soldered to pull-down resistors and connected to their respective Arduino analog input pins. The “sending” parts (hands) were attached to the positive terminal of the battery using their lead wire. I could have just used an Arduino pin to send a signal out instead of using a battery, but I was convinced earlier on that I could have a wireless glove set up by using the battery (it didn’t work, of course).


Here are the knees, face, and hands in respective order:

kneeshead glove2glove1



Arduino Code

Max File

Max 8

This is the section of the Max 8 patcher that reads from the Arduino and interprets the status of the connections:





Code for interfacing between Arduino and Max 8

E-textile switch tutorial

Experiment4_3 Crafting Electronics Swatchbook — The Music Box


Add some music to your little things in daily life.
Group #11
Rhepa Kamal
Ziqi Guo
Qinxinrui Zhu
Weiqi Wu

Wrok done by Weiqi Wu (3175842)


This is a Speaker Actuator. This is an interactive music box (speaker) that users could place their cup or anything that has weight. While something is placing on the towel part, the music will on. The inspiration comes from the process of making the speaker actuator in assignment 4-2. In this project, I tried to explore the way that collaborates the speaker with other things. During the exploration, I found out that there is a lot of stuff on my desk, therefore, I decided to combine the speaker with something so that it will save the space on the desk as well as people can have some music playing.


Function purpose: 
- Magnet
- Magnet Wire
- Arduino Uno
- Sponge
- Tin foil
- Adafruit Mono 2.5W Class D Audio Amplifier - PAM8302
- Tape and Glue

Decoration purpose:
- Foam Board
- Acrylic borad 
- Towel

Tool and Techniques

  • Utility Knife: To help to cut the form board and sponge
  • Scissors: Used to cut the magnet wire, tape, and tin foil
  • Double-sided tape: To set the fixed position
  • Glue gun: To construct the box and any other things that need to be glued

Materials and Tools


First Prototype

Construction Stages



(top-left: details of the class-D amplifier; top-right: detail of the Arduino Uno; bottom-left: the overall details; bottom-right: the magnet wire speaker)

This is the very first prototype of the speaker, testing if it is working or not.

Detail Shots



(upper-left: all the components inside the speaker music box; upper-right: the outlook of the music box; bottom-left: the magnet under the cup; bottom-right: the cup place on the music box, and the music box start to play music)

For the next step, I made a box for the speaker, and it became a music box. It connects all the wire and put it inside the box. On top of the music box, it is the magnet wire. The magnet is under the cup. So when the cup place in a specific area, the music will turn on.

Stage of Interaction


This is how the first prototype will interact. Placing the cup on the music box, and the music box will turn on.

Video of the First Prototype:


Circuit Diagram



For the first prototype, the music box could only interact with the cup. I would like to further develop it that no matter what objects people place on the music box, there will be music playing. Therefore, I need to put the magnet in the music box at the beginning. To solve the problem that the music will always be playing, I decided to find a method that can open the circuit before the input of the magnet wire. Therefore, only when something place on the music box and close the circuit, the music box will on.

Second Prototype

Construction Stages


I used Velostat to test whether it will work or not. If it works when the object places on the music box, there is pressure on the Velostat, and the circuit will close, the speaker, which means the music box, will work. However, the Velostat does not really work, there is no sound. So fail to use Velostat as the switch to the circuit.

Final version

Construction Stages

With the inspiration of my group member’s example in assignment 4-2, which called “Three Buttons”. I decided to use sponge and tin foil to create the switch of the circuit. So when the object places on the music box, it will add pressure to the sponge, and two sides of the tin foil will touch each other which closes the circuit.



(top-left: the sponge that cut; top-right: the sponge with two sheets of tin foil; bottom: the sponge with the tin foil in two sides)

Video of Testing:  https://youtu.be/EAUNLButh_E

It does work really well. So I started to construct the music box and make the sponge looks better.



(top-left: foam board of the box; top-right: cover the sponge with a towel and testing whether it works or not; bottom-left and right: finish making the box. The towel is on top of the box, and there is a foam board on top of the sponge, in order to make it looks better.)

These are the construction steps of making the music box. However, it does not work, the foam board on top of the sponge is too supportive. It spread the weight of the object, thus, there was less pressure applied on the sponge, which not allowing tin foil to connect together.


(top-left and right: I decided to leave only the sponge with the towel cover on top of the box since there is no better option for me to do that)

In this way, the speaker will work when there is pressure on the towel area.

Detail Shots


(left: the overall look of the music box; right: the overall looks inside the music box, including the paper speaker, magnet, amplifier, and Arduino Uno)

Stage of Interaction



This is the stage of interaction. I placed a cup and a candle on the music box, and it works properly. The music box will on and play some music.

Final version VIDEO

For the video of the final version, the amplifier experienced damage before the video recording, which made it does not work anymore. There two possible reasons that the amplifier became broke. The first one is that the amplifier experienced a short cut. It was too hot during the testing that burned inside, so the amplifier does not work anymore. Another reason is that I used a glue gun to fix the position of the amplifier and the hot glue was directly applied to the amplifier, and the glue was really hot, which might lead to damage to the amplifier.

Before I found out that the amplifier is broken, I test different parts to check where the problems happen. I made a new paper speaker and used a new wire to connect each part. Then I reupload the code to the Arduino Uno. And after that, I built the basic version of the speaker, and it still did not work. So I think that the problems happened in the amplifier.

Since I only have one amplifier and buy a new one will take at least two weeks to deliver, I could not record the video of the final outcome of the music box. But it worked well when I took the photos of the stage of the interaction. At the interaction stage, I haven’t use the glue gun to fix the position of the amplifier. In the interaction stage, before I put anything on the music box, there is no sound or music, and after I place the candle or cup on the towel area on the music box, the music box started to work and play music.

For the basic working principle understanding, the testing video is basically the same as the testing of the final version, other than the extra towel-covered on the sponge and set on the music box. So please look at the testing video and find out how the music box work.

This is the testing link: https://youtu.be/EAUNLButh_E



Reference Code Link: 

I used the reference code in the project. However, people could change the sound into a song, or connect it to a cloud or Spotify to play a playlist.

Reference Source: 



Due to the accident of the broken in an audio amplifier, I think that it would be better next time to add a resistor in between the speaker and the amplifier. During the testing, the amplifier was hot while using it, so that might be the reason for burning the amplifier and made it doesn’t work. Also, another reminder will do not put anything too hot on the amplifier or other microcontrollers, which might cause some damage because of the high temperature. In addition, in order to allow the project to work smoothly, it is a great idea to prepare at least two sets of materials so that when something is not working, there will be another one for you to continue your project.

For further development of this project, I would like to change the material for making the music box. Instead of foam board, it will have better look in wood, acrylic board, or metal. Also, I would like to change the sound of the music box that makes it into a song instead of only some notes.

Moreover, people could add more colours to the music box if they want to. I like a white and clean look, so I did not add any colours.

4.3 Crafting Electronics Swatchbook: Knit Stretch Analog Sensor Headband

Group number 12 – Giulia Zefilippo 3179987


About the swatch:
A knitted stretch sensor headband is meant to replicate a sense of coziness and warmth when you put it on. Originally, the idea was to insert a heating pad into the band so it would keep you warm outside during winter. It would only turn on when you wear it. To showcase it’s ability, I have used an red LED instead.

It’s knitted with conductive thread and thick yarn. Both of those materials combined is able to give it the ability to stretch and measure various resistance values. With those values, I was able to set up a conditional if the headband is stretched between certain values, then the LED can turn on.

Construction Stages:


  • Knitting yarn
  • Conductive thread
  • Elastic string
  • Knitting needles
  • LEDs
  • Copper insulated wire
  • 220 ohm resistor


Tools and Techniques:

    • Knowledge of knitting (casting on, casting off)
    • Stockinette knitting stitch (creates a fold on the knitted edges)
    • Knitting needles
    • Multi-meter


Link to code
Video Demonstration

Inspiration / References:
Original inspiration – Crochet stretch sensor
Further Inspiration – Knitted circuit board
How to measure resistance of an unknown resistor

Project 4.3 Swatch – Rainbow Walkers: NeoPixel Sneakers w/ Digital Switch

Written by Group 1 (Ryan Boyd, Sarah Boo, Karen Quach)

Rainbow Walkers: NeoPixel Sneakers w/ Digital Switch by Ryan Boyd


Swatch Type: Digital Switch

These NeoPixel Sneakers were inspired by the Firewalker LED Sneakers on Adafruit.  The Circuit Playground Express, which is sewed into the high top, is hooked up to a 3x AAA Battery pack that also hooks into the high top of the sneaker.   The cables were soldered from the Circuit Playground to a NeoPixel strip, and there are two conductive threads, one threaded into a pin and the other into ground, taped to the inside of the sneaker.  The NeoPixel strip is activated when the two conductive threads are connected by a strip of conductive fabric which would be sewn into the bottom of your socks, causing the lights to appear only when the shoes are worn.  The code will show a color wipe of each colour of the rainbow when the digital switch is activated.


  • Sneakers
  • Jumper Wires
  • Solder
  • NeoPixel
  • Conductive Thread
  • Normal Thread
  • Conductive Fabric
  • 3x AAA Battery Pack
  • Circuit Playground Express
  • Strong Adhesive (In my case, Double Sided Foam Tape)

Tools & Techniques

  • Soldering Iron
  • Sewing Needle
    The Circuit Playground Expressed was sewed onto the High Top of the shoe while the conductive threads were threaded into each pin.  The NeoPixel was soldered to the circuit board with jumper wire.


Circuit diagram:


  • Code: https://pastebin.com/cUUL1qLn
  • Video: https://ocadu.techsmithrelay.com/hFXLReferences/Inspiration:
  • https://learn.adafruit.com/firewalker-led-sneakers/overview 
  • https://www.digikey.ca/en/maker/projects/adafruit-neopixel-berguide/970445a726c1438a9023c1e78c42e0bb
  • https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/zanycadencedev/getting-started-with-arduino-and-neopixels-013360
  • https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-circuit-playground-express/pinouts

    Additional Notes: The ways in which the Rainbow Walkers are different from the Firewalkers are in two main areas.  The first is that while the Firewalkers employ a pressure sensor based on velostat and is step activated, the Rainbow walkers use a digital switch which is based on presence or absence of connection between the loose conductive threads inside the shoe, and is thus always activated when the shoes are worn with a conductive fabric sock.  The second way the Rainbow Walkers differ is that they employ a color wipe of the entire rainbow rather than one colour, cycling through one colour at a time across the whole strip before moving onto the next.   I originally tried to employ the use of a pressure sensor which did work in the 4.2 section of the class section, but because I used a Circuit Playground Express, it did not pick up usable values from the pressure sensor, and instead read a random value between 0-10 no matter how much pressure was applied, and thus there was no way to differentiate a step from nothing happening at all.  I needed to create a distinct state of activation, so I decided to turn it into a digital switch instead.  An additional tip I employed was the use of a battery pack with a hook so it was easier to keep in place in the sneaker.  One difficulty I had was finding a long lasting adhesive for the NeoPixel.  I tried using hot glue, double sided tape, and even gorilla glue.  Nothing seemed to stick for long, but double sided tape would at least hold together.  The original Firewalker employed an adhesive that too 24 hours to dry, so moving forward I may look into using that for long term use.


Winter Warmth

Rhepa Kamal- 3176897

Group 11

  • Rhepa Kamal
  • Ziqi Guo
  • Qinxinrui Zhu
  • Weiqi Wu

Winter Warmth


It’s the most wonderful time of the year.



This is a Capacitive Sensor. It is a simple interactive swatch where you can “shake” the platform which will trigger a melody and lights. You can also press onto presents, which will manually glow the tree and produce a sound. I called this the “Winter Warmth” because I love the holidays since it is the time of the year where everyone puts up lights, trees that bring warmth and comfort.


These materials are used to create this swatch. The main materials are :

  1. Adafruit Circuit Playground Express
  2. Aluminum Foil
  3. Conductive thread
  4. Whiteboard and cardboard, or any board that could be used as a surface
  5. Tape & Glue

And the rest of the materials were used for decorating purposes:

  1. Fairylights(optional)
  2. Paper
  3. toothpicks, popsicle sticks & pipe
  4. Tissue & cotton 
  5. Fabric

This is my brainstorming board, where I have drawn and listed things that I have wanted to create and give me an idea of the final product.

4-3-winter-glow I was debating whether to make a snowglobe or board. Turns out, I don’t have any type of dome so I went with the board.

I started off by attaching the conductive thread into a specific pin number on the circuit playground. That will act as our button.


I then taped it onto a square whiteboard and glued a popsicle stick that will hold the tissue tree and hide the circuit board. I cut a hole for the USB connection. I made the tree using tissues and gluing it onto a clear plastic cone, then place it onto the glue popsicle sticks so I can just remove the tree to make any other adjustments.

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I placed it onto another board and cut square holes into them. Make sure each conductive thread would be able to reach each square. That is where we will insert the fairy light and hide it with a small fabric present box to illuminate the piece more. I added a pipe as a guide to wrap, and glue the fabric since I am very horrible when it comes to sewing.  It was a bit messy, however, it will all be hidden from the cotton.

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Once wrapped, the ribbon must be conductive to act as a button. I connected the conductive thread with the aluminum foil.

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I used MakCode to program the Circuit Playground Express. Link to the code: